What are the characteristics of goat leather?

It is a type of leather that makes you want to play guessing games. It is not exotic leather but it has one specific characteristic. It is not bovine leather, but it is also part of a recovery cycle. It does not have the same aura as calfskin leather, but it is precious leather and its qualities are extraordinary… So what is goat leather?

Unique characteristics

Goat leather has a quality that few leathers possess: a natural grain. The grain of leather is what designates the visual and tactile aspect of its surface. You can recognize a grain: you can see it with the naked eye and feel it under your fingers. Goat leather is not smooth and, thanks to its grain, it is unlike any other. In this respect, it is similar to exotic leathers, such as crocodile or lizard leather. Moreover, this natural grain differs from goat to goat. Like the scales of a reptile, it has a random geometry that makes each leather unique.

Another major characteristic of goat leather is its durability. Goat skin is by nature very resistant due to the composition of its fibres. But the grain itself gives the leather this quality: this natural relief strengthens it. Unlike lambskin, which can be damaged by a watch or a key scratch, goatskin does not get damaged. It is very resistant to impacts, scratches and other traces of time.

Finally, goat hide gives a leather with a format that can be easily used in manufacturing. This is because the animal’s flanks are solid and not hollowed out by the hind legs, as is the case with lambs. The usable area corresponds roughly to a rectangle of 70 cm by 50 cm. This surface has a more or less homogeneous grain, depending on the species of the goat.

The importance of origin

The grain of goat leather depends on the species of the animal. Indian goats and African goats originate from different species and do not have the same grain type at all. The origin of the goat is therefore very important. It explains the natural pattern on its hide and induces the visual result on the leather. In this respect, goat leather is still definitely comparable to exotic leather. Indeed, the African crocodile does not have the same scale pattern as the American alligator.

Mégisserie Jullien works exclusively with Madras goats, a species known for its unique grain incomparable to any other.The advantage of the Indian goat is its uniform grain size. Whether they are large or small, the grains are always regular, like small juxtaposed circles or squares. This harmonious visual appearance is very much appreciated: it is beautiful to behold and makes the leather easy to work with. 

The grain of the African goat has a completely different appearance, being more elongated and less regular. Its particularity is that it is oriented in a motion that starts from the bottom of the skin and goes up the spine. In addition, the design of the spine on the goatskin is a component that should not be overlooked. When making anything from goat leather (cutting or sewing), it can get in the way. With the African goat, this constraint is stronger. A faux “natural grain” plate print does not reproduce the spine, in order to make the work easier. This absence then reveals that the grain cannot be natural: this “goat leather” is not authentic.

The breeding of Madras goats

As its name suggests, the Madras goat originates from India. Madras, the former name of the city of Chennai, is located on the east coast of the country, along the Bay of Bengal. In this region with a tropical, hot and humid climate, goat farms are an important part of the local economy. The animal is bred and appreciated for its meat, one of the most widely consumed in the country. Goat meat does not fall under the religious prohibitions of the two major religions. Like mutton, it is traditionally cooked and eaten by Indians.

The Madras goat is a part of life in every village, and owning one or more is commonplace. It is an excellent domestic animal: well treated because it is practical, even central to the lives of Indians who own them. Primarily a family business, livestock farming has not yet become highly professionalized. It cannot be intensive, as the lack of fodder in these regions does not allow it. Rearing structures are small, and pastures are close to nature and to the daily needs of the people. Raising a goat is simple, with shepherds and farmers cooperating. The animal naturally cleans, weeds and fertilises farmland, while giving milk and eventually meat.

In this economic cycle, the tanner comes at the end of the chain and allows the co-product to be processed. As such, goat leather can be compared to bovine leather. It is the consumption of meat that leads to the recovery and recycling of waste. As the tanner is at the end of the cycle, breeding is not organised according to his specific needs. The recovered goat hides may therefore have defects: parasites, abrasions, etc. The Jullien tannery only works with Madras goats, and carries out extensive sorting work to select the most beautiful hides.

The work in the tannery

Because of this highly specific origin, we cannot speak of French goat leather. Mégisserie Jullien buys its hides in India and works them in France, using know-how that dates back more than a century. The work of the fellmonger is no different from that of the tanner. The word refers to a person who processes sheep and goat hides, as opposed to a person who processes cattle hides. The transformation processes are identical, but the Jullien tannery’s expertise is specific to goat leather.

Its particularity is that it has a slight natural tension: it is not smooth. The work of the tannery consists of sublimating it in order to highlight its original quality. In order for the natural grain to appear, the fullmonger carries out fulling. This operation consists of putting the hides in a barrel (or fuller) without any product or water. The rotation of the fuller will lead to a random mixing of the hides: this is what allows the natural grain to stand out.

This is followed by the dyeing and finishing stages, adapted according to the final product and its use. Mégisserie Jullien offers a finish called Breteuil, with a naturally grained and satin appearance. Obtained by vegetable tanning, this finish dyes the goat leather and protects it. The Breteuil finish is therefore very durable and resistant to wear and abrasion. All colours are imaginable for this refined product, which is easy to use in manufacturing.

Uses and care of goat leather

Is it because of its small size that goat leather is primarily used for leather goods? Luxury brands appreciate its typical grain and goat leather bags are high-end products. The high strength of this leather also allows it to be used as a lining. Its natural grain, unaffected by keys, offers good value for money for those who want to improve the life of a bag. And don’t forget that goat leather has another quality: its refinement. A fully lined goat leather bag with a small grain is a unique, chic and refined object.

Goat leather is therefore naturally found in the manufacture of small leather goods: purses, clutches, etc. It is used in watch straps as well as in bookbinding and sheathing: cases, small trunks, jewellery and other lucky charms. Breteuil sheathes very well and small sizes are easy to work with, thanks to its small, even grain. It is also for its grain that goat leather is used in footwear, mainly in sportswear. Versatility is one of its many qualities.

Thus, it has all the ideal characteristics to stand the test of time. Its excellent durability, its resistant grain… there is no secret to cleaning goat leather. Like all leather, it deserves regular maintenance with a simple cleansing milk or glycerine soap. The smell of Breteuil goat leather is nothing special and does not need to be masked. A soft, dry cloth can be used to remove dust that accumulates over days. Like with precious leather, it is with use, as time goes by, that goat leather will display all its qualities.